13/2/2025 Onsei-ya
In Japanese, we use the onomatopoeia “hata-hata” to describe the sound of something thin repeatedly fluttering and striking with force. It’s a word that carries both lightness and strength.
During my early days of frequenting Asagaya, I had only a handful of places where I felt comfortable dining alone. One of these was “Hata.”
The izakaya Hata—written with the character “將”—has just eight counter seats. Behind the counter, the lightly bearded owner converses with his customers in crisp, clear tones while serving his carefully selected dishes.
On the wall behind the counter, there are coat hooks shaped like emerald-green yokai faces. These hooks, I learned, were inspired by the climbing holds used in bouldering—a passion of the owner’s.
Every dish served here carries its own excellence. My favorites include the red shrimp sashimi, the grilled skewers, and the udon noodles. The fresh red shrimp is served as sashimi, accompanied by its deep-fried shell. If the timing is right, you might find game meat among the skewer options. For the finale, I always order one of the three varieties of udon—the slightly thin noodles with their perfect firmness have become something of an addiction.
The owner, who is a few years my senior, often discusses manga with me. We share a particular fondness for Naoki Urasawa’s “MONSTER.” The way his eyes light up when discussing his favorite manga must surely be one of the reasons so many customers find themselves drawn to this small restaurant.
Sometimes the restaurant isn’t open at its stated opening time, but even this has become part of its charm. Walking past again, peering in to see if it might be open this time—this too has become one of life’s small pleasures.
The suppleness of the cuisine, the powerful gleam in the owner’s eyes—both are indispensable elements of this place’s character.